Kings And Pioneers: July 2011

Fashion as Sculpture? The Body as a Blank Canvas?

One of the coolest things about creating garments, making it unique in design fields, is the fundamental necessity that it relate to the body underneath. No matter who the designer is, what their origins may be, or what material they are using, the starting point and most basic end goal remain the same. This provides a common point of reference that for most other design disciplines rests solely on purpose, but does not put constraints on the structural elements. (Think architects who make structures in which people will live or work, or designers who create vehicles with motors and wheels)
The body is often referred to as a blank canvas, and the dress as a sculpture. But both are inaccurate, or insufficient, as analogies. The first is two dimensional, and the second ignores the all important form around which the 'sculpture' must conform. It is more the body as a bare foundation, and the garment as a form of sculpture that is molded and modeled and draped and tailored in direct relation to this unchanging starting point (that has mass, two arms, two legs, and a head).
Materials are limitless, as long as they can be manipulated relative to the form of the body. Soft, Hard, Sheer, Opaque, Woven, Melded, Synthetic, Organic...

Image via sewreview.com

Self Portrait Updated

Here is an updated version since this morning, that's all for today- It will sit for a while and I'll pick it up again when I have an idea about what is next. Maybe there is too much ambiguity. But honestly, a lot of that comes from the fact that I only have two paintbrushes, one .75" wide and the other about 1.25" wide. I wonder what would happen if I started back in with a more precise tool (for right now that is my sharpie). I like the speed of painting with thick brushes, and I like the texture they can create- but it is true that I could get into some really interesting depth and detail with a little experimentation using a smaller brush. Hmmm...

Self Portrait in Progress

Trying to look away I guess- there is supposed to be a kind of tension pulling up from the corner that I haven't really achieved- as if pulling back into the painting- trying to figure out what ground would help with that effect, as well. Something that pops to the foreground, and leaves the forehead seemingly further into the picture plane. I am going back in with Sharpie once the paint dries, because I find that the graphic element helps me re-frame and re-position my next moves. I have thus far totally ignored the body position as well, and that could be a cool way to play with the depth- especially messing with the immediate foreground starting from the bottom right.

Haute Couture Coverage

Un Moment Avec Lee on TheFashionList
Elie Saab
Julien Fournié
Alexandre Vauthier
Stéphane Rolland
Jantaminiau
Christophe Josse
Adeline André

I have recently started writing as the Parisian correspondent for TheFashionList, a New York based industry website for agendas and happenings.
I'll put a link to the articles as they come, weekly.

Upcoming:
Knitwear in Antwerp MOMU
Hussein Chalayan Musée Des Arts Décoratifs

Johnny Cash & Emmylou Harris : Where The Soul Never Dies

One of the best parts of this video (aside from the magic of Johnny Cash's voice with Emmylou Harris') is the mandolin being played by a young Marty Stuart (Grammy winning country artist) in the silver blazer from the future.
In the video link below you can see into the actual future, 26 years later, where the fashion is even better if you can believe it.
Marty Stuart Country+Rock 'n Roll

Research on 30s Glam

George Hurell of Carole Lombard

George Hurrell of Joan Crawford

Kate Hepburn

Greta Garbo in Mata Hari

Doris Zinkeisen by Harold Cazneaux

Fashion Editorials

Kirlian Photography

This photography is believed (by believers) to capture the aura of the subject by capturing the electric current sent through the subject that is in direct contact with the film, rather than traditional photography which captures light in space. Whether skeptic or believer, the images can be pretty cool.

Thumbprint

mushrooms

Textile- Symbolic Reiki Weave

fingertips

Flower Power

a Bernie Boston photograph From the anti-war protest outside of the Pentagon in 1967

"Be careful when you walk on an Oriental carpet, because you're stepping on somebody's psychedelic vision." —Timothy Leary, as quoted in LIFE's September 9, 1966, issue

Shiprock

Doing some research on Geological folds, I came across this photographer who is a professor at the University of Wisconsin. Louis Maher. In '59 he took a trip to capture his own images for a series of educational videos he was putting together for his classes. There are many beautiful images, that are also great for learning about the development and characteristics of the landscapes as per his goal.
Here I wanted to share this specific site that totally blows my mind. You know those hyper-speed videos where you see flowers bloom in a matter of seconds? Imagine seeing the evolution of this rock formation and the land around it sped up over millions of years. If only...
Shiprock